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Suitable Visions

Kimberly Cihlar
From the Print Edition:
Gene Hackman, Sep/Oct 00

(continued from page 1)

VESTIMENTA

Modern, easy and metropolitan, this is a collection that, in the words of president John R. Wilson, is "dedicated to men who appreciate refined timeless pieces where comfort and quality stand in each garment." Three-button and double-breasted shapes are soft, shoulders straight but natural. Fabrics, like a worsted-spun cashmere, are rich. Shoes by John Lobb.  

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

"For us, we believe in details, in the construction, the lightness and softness of the fabrics," says Zegna fashion and public relations director Djordje Stefanovic. "The fabrics are warm to the touch but lightweight." His nod to the casual trend is a suit jacket that can be worn separately. "Day colors," or natural shades, instead of gray or navy, predominate in patterns like glen plaids, windowpanes and overchecks. The leading silhouette is the three-button jacket with lapels a bit narrower and higher and shoulders very natural. The suit is very deconstructed, sometimes with no lining, for a trim but comfortable fit.  

CORNELIANI "We're addressing the casual Friday issue, looking at the business place and a way to dress down clothing," says executive vice president and chief operating officer Roger Cohen. "A gentleman can wear a great suit with a great sport shirt. So, we obviously don't think suit business is waning." He refers to one new model as the "Savile Row for the twenty-first century." Slightly more relaxed in the chest and with a rich sleeve head and sloped shoulder, it is soft yet sartorial. The trousers are more tapered with a flat front. He describes the patterns as light with a beautiful patina. Super 150 fabrics are strong, and the season's colors are dark gray and green backgrounds with vibrant accents in the pattern. "Nothing garish or overly bold. Men want temperate cloth, with all the travel and leisure time that's part of a man's schedule." Sweater by Canali.  

HUGO BOSS

"Color and structure are back," pronounces chairman and chief executive Werner Baldessarini. The colors are dark rich tones in purple, dark red and green. The structure is predominantly three-button single-breasted with natural shoulders, cut close to the body. Lapels are high and so is button stance. Trousers are wider, more relaxed, with a fluid, elegant feeling. Shoes by J.M. Weston.  

POLO RALPH LAUREN PURPLE LABEL

"The elegance of Purple Label," according to Lauren, "is underscored by the new 'Manor' jacket's unconstructed design and natural shoulder, this suit being a take on the sophisticated craftsmanship of Savile Row. Throughout the collection, tones of gray are complemented by subtle shades of blue, thistle and lovett. English tailored suits have a refined look, made contemporary with narrow lapels and sleek silhouettes." Shoes by J.M. Weston  

CANALI


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