A Winning Off-the-Rack Wardrobe
The Best Off-the-Rack Wardrobe
G. Bruce Boyer
From the Print Edition:
Linda Evangelista, Autumn 95
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610 Fifth Avenue, New York, New York 10020
Since its beginning in 1945, Brioni has specialized in the fashionable "Roman style" of tailoring--the first to define the international approach to contemporary elegance for men: slimming silhouette, luxury fabrics and lightweight construction. The workmanship is impeccable, with everything extremely well thought out, from the shape of a lapel to luxury silk linings and the finest horn buttons. Suits from $2,500, sport jackets from $1,700, topcoats from $2,500.
730 Fifth Avenue New York, New York 10019
Kiton represents the best of the Neapolitan school of tailoring: closer to the English, but a bit more sensuous and fluid, without all the stiffness and heaviness. A Kiton suit is soft and subtle in shaping. Most of the fabrics are the Super worsteds, cashmeres and silks--lightweight but with excellent drape. Suits and sport jackets from $2,500. Their renowned seven-fold tie is priced at $140.
1220 West Van Buren Street, Chicago, Illinois 60607
Long having the reputation of the best suits (below) made in the United States (some say anywhere), Oxxford is the great traditionalist. With as much handwork as in any custom suit, Oxxford prefers moderation in styling, as best befits the American businessman: moderate shoulder and discriminating waist suppression on the jacket. Super 150 Worsteds, Loro Piana cashmeres, Duppioni silks. Suits from $1,500.
867 Madison Avenue, New York, New York 10021
New for Fall is the Ralph Lauren Collection. Handmade in England, the silhouette is classic Savile Row: broad shoulders, nipped waist, high armhole, and side vents give suits a strong architectural look. Done with all the custom details--handmade sleeve buttonholes, custom linings, extension waistbands on trousers--and the finest chalk-striped flannels, glen plaids and bankers Worsteds. Suits from $2,000. Shirts and ties designed for the tailored clothing available as part of the collection.
Mariano Rubinacci: at Bergdorf Goodman
745 Fifth Avenue
New York, New York 10022
Rubinacci has a tailoring shop and haberdashery in Naples, but he also makes a complete line of ready-to-wear that is characterized by an easy elegance and softness unsurpassed in tailored clothing. He crafts his pared-down classics using only the most sybaritic of fabrics: unconstructed silk blazers that are absolutely whisper-weight, buttery flannel trousers in smoky hues, unlined cashmere jackets that are a poem. Suits from $1,450, sport jackets from $1,100, flannel trousers at $295.
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