Rye and Cigars

Jack Bettridge
Posted: December 31, 1969

Tasting Cigars and Rye

Starting from the point of view that straight rye whiskey is a great spirit worthy of further recognition, the Cigar Aficionado staff put its collective palate to the task of finding out how the quaff matched up against a great cigar. Three editors sat down with a collection of 11 ryes and one Sancho Panza Caballero apiece and came to the conclusion that the drink is worthy of being added to the pantheon of cigar/liquor pairings. What follows are more in-depth tasting notes. Rittenhouse Straight Rye

We tasted both the 80- and 100-proof expressions and decided to pair the stronger of the two with the cigar. While the 80 proof was somewhat one dimensional and hot, the 100 proof was a spice bomb with a long, smooth finish that elicited the comment: "Where's the kick start on this bottle?" Clove tastes were specifically noted. It paired very well with the cigar, accentuating its woodiness. Stephen Foster Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey (80 proof)

This rye is charcoal filtered, as is Jack Daniel's, and tasted somewhat like its Tennessee cousin. It started out very sweet -- almost like a candy cane -- and proceeded to a charred smokiness. The finish was short. It formed a neutral partnership with the cigar, which tended to overpower it a bit. A milder smoke is advisable for a pairing with this whiskey. Pikesville Supreme Straight Rye Whiskey (80 proof)

This rye, which claims a heritage to old Maryland, bills itself as "the aristocrat of straight whiskeys." That is something of an overstatement for the happy little rye, which comes out strong with a big maple sugar taste, but ends up a one-act play with very little finish. It gained somewhat from the cigar pairing, but didn't return the flavor favor. Old Overholt Straight Rye Whiskey (80 proof)

Coming out as a straight-forward rye at the start, this whiskey soon develops hints of nutmeg and a slight sweetness that smacks of vanilla and delivers a toasty smooth balance. When the cigar was added, it locked onto the Sancho's leather qualities and skipped down the road, developing sweetness and richness along the way. In short, an excellent pairing. Jim Beam Straight Rye Whiskey (80 proof)

When Jim Beam's eponymous entry came out in the mid-'80s, it was the first new entry in the category for years. For that alone it should get kudos. Add the fact that it's a kick-down-the-door whiskey with a big maple syrup and vanilla component and you've got something. Lacks the finish and is more acidic than Overholt, the other Beam rye. A good equal partner with the cigar, creating an interesting juxtaposition of sweetness, leather and nuts. Wild Turkey Real Kentucky Rye Whiskey (101 proof)

This Turkey started like bourbon and then flew to the rafters on wings of spice. It circled a couple times, dusting us with hints of a honeyed, but not sweet, note, before finally gliding to loamy soil on a finish of walnut and coconut. The rye commandeered the flavors of the cigar, creating a lasting finish and the chocolate and peanut character of a Snicker's Bar. Old Rip Van Winkle Old Time Rye (90 proof)

Van Winkle's 12-year-old busted out with an oaken, sweet yeasty flavor that became only more complex as it moved through the mouth. Rich olive oil flavors followed, before it calmed to a buttery finish with a slight bit of heat. With the cigars it made one of the best pairings of the group, matching it richness for richness. One taster said he could feel it in his ears. Van Winkle Family Reserve Rye (95.6 proof)

At a year older this Van Winkle has upped the spice quotient with cinnamon and clove, but somehow gotten sweeter in the transaction. It lacks the smooth butteriness of younger expression, however. Its reaction with the Sancho Panza was generally comparable to that of the kid brother. Sazerac Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey (90 proof)

At 18 years, this whiskey is exceptionally smooth and honeyed, with almost Cognac-like character. But even as it drips bee's nectar, it manages to deliver an interesting component of tantalizing spices -- mint or menthol -- that gives the drink mystery as it works its way to a leathery, woody denoument. The pairing was very good. All the leather and sweetness jumped out when drunk with the cigar, but the Cognac notes backed off. The Classic Cask Hand-Crafted Single Batch (90 proof)

Despite an inviting candied nose, a deep red color and a price tag of more than 50 bucks, this 15-year-old was uninspiring when it met the tongue. The sweetness became cloying and flat, and it hit the palate with a resounding thud. Paradoxically, the long saccharine finish somehow made for a good cigar pairing, as it attenuated the cigar's leather character. Old Potrero Single Malt Straight Rye (125.2 proof)

This whiskey, made by microbrew pioneer (Anchor Steam) Fritz Maytag, is really a different creature from the other ryes we tasted. It is made of 100 percent rye (some of which has been malted to facilitate the fermenting process), distilled in copper pots and, at three years old, at least a year younger than most other ryes. As such, its austere quality may seem off-putting at first (especially when following the much sweeter ryes above). It's certainly rough with hints of fusel oil and the taste of unaged whiskey. But persevere, this rye has herbaceous charms that recall the whiskeys of old Pennsylvania and Maryland. If it doesn't become a regular quaff, it is at least an interesting historical note. At 125 proof, it cries out for the addition of water or an ice cube. Maytag also makes a younger product that is aged in uncharred barrels and can't be termed straight whiskey. It's even more off-putting and in the opinion of our panel not w --Jack Bettridge



Page One | Page Two

Return to the Drinks Page