Moving Forward in Nicaragua
Nicaragua's cigarmakers craft their smokes while keeping one way eye on the country's new president
From the Print Edition:
Tom Berenger, July/Aug 2007
The meal of roast pig and all the trimmings was finished, and the sated diners retired to the living room for drinks and cigars. The clicking of multiple lighters was heard, then the air filled with the rich aroma of heady Nicaraguan tobacco. The men sat on an L-shaped couch, their eyes focused on the events unfolding on the television. Daniel Ortega, Nicaragua's newly elected president, was standing on a grand podium surrounded by his allies from around the world. Standing particularly close was Venezuelan strongman Hugo Chavez, foil to American president George Bush and in spirit the second coming of Fidel Castro. Patriotic music boomed in the background as a sea of onlookers, supporters of the Sandinista party, chanted what reminded some of those in the living room of an old Soviet work song.
For those with investments in Nicaragua, the sight could not have been comforting. Yet it's the new reality in Nicaragua, where Ortega has risen from the ashes to once again claim the presidency of this Central American nation. His previous reign—he was part of the ruling junta in 1980, then served as president from 1985 to 1990—was known for the nationalization of private assets and the American government's embargo of Nicaraguan goods. Today, however, the nation is serene, and few expect that such hard times will return. Many are betting it will be business as usual, and some are even making significant investments in ways that suggest they expect the country will continue to be a leading exporter of fine cigars to the U.S. market.
Nicaragua's cigar exports are growing faster than any other cigar producer. Shipments rose by 12 percent in 2006 to 56.4 million cigars, keeping Nicaragua firmly in the No. 3 spot for exports of premium cigars to the United States. (The Dominican Republic, which controls about half the market, ranks first.) No. 2 producer Honduras had flat shipments in 2006, at 88.2 million cigars.
The growth rate for Nicaraguan shipments has eclipsed that of other cigar producers for most of this decade. In 2000, Nicaraguan exports were 19.2 million, less than a third that of Honduras. They soared to 27.4 million in 2001, then reached 37.7 million in 2002 before slipping to 33 million in 2003. The growth resumed in 2004, jumping to 47.9 million, then 50.4 million in 2005.
The success of Nicaraguan cigars is directly tied to the country's amazing tobacco. The rich soils of Nicaragua yield superb tobacco leaf, and the nation has three distinct growing areas—Jalapa, Estelí and Condega—that allow cigarmakers the option to create complex blends using solely Nicaraguan tobacco Nicaraguan tobacco makes delicious cigars, and American cigar smokers have embraced that flavor.
The Padrón family, makers of Nicaragua's most acclaimed cigars, seem unfazed by the election of Ortega. They have put even more support behind the Nicaraguan cigar industry by shutting their Honduran factory, the outpost in Danlí where all Padróns were made during the U.S. embargo on Nicaragua. "We're moving the Honduran operation here," said president Jorge Padrón in January, seemingly unconcerned with the notion of closing his safety valve when some are wondering about the future of Nicaragua. He is walking through the large factory in Estelí that he and his father, José Orlando, opened in 2004, the source of most of the 5 million cigars the company produces each year.
At the end of 2006, the Padróns stopped making cigars in Honduras, and earlier this year they added production capacity in Estelí to make up for what was once made in Honduras. (At first, they had decided to put the rollers in their original Nicaraguan factory, which is now a warehouse, but they later changed the plan, and found space inside the large compound where they now make all of their cigars.) Rolling every Padrón in Nicaragua has streamlined the company's production. The Honduran factory remains open, but only as a box manufacturing facility.
Few things seem to faze the Padróns. This is a family that lived with bombs left on their Miami office doorsteps when a humanitarian mission to Cuba to rescue political prisoners didn't sit well with some members of the Miami community. When you can survive a bombing, a change in Nicaraguan politics mightn't seem daunting.
José Orlando Padrón flew to Cuba in October 1978 as part of a humanitarian mission to free political prisoners. During the visit, he recalled on a recent trip to Nicaragua, he met with Fidel Castro. Padrón had three cigars in his shirt pocket. "Padrón," Fidel said, "I hear you've been making good cigars." Padrón answered, "That's what they say." Asked Castro: "Can I try one?"
Padrón put the three cigars on the table, allowing the Cuban leader to choose. He selected one, Padrón took another, and put the third back in his pocket. "At that moment," remembers Padrón, "there were no journalists in the room." They spoke about the prisoners, came to an agreement and then brought in the press. At that time, Castro asked Padrón for another cigar to examine. Padrón handed him the one in his pocket. "I think Fidel did it on purpose," says Padrón. "The moment I handed him the cigar, they snapped the picture." The photograph made headlines in Miami, and it didn't sit well with some.
"It was like putting gasoline on a fire," says Jorge, who was a child when the trip occurred. The bombs—six in all, three of which exploded—soon followed.
"I have no regrets," says José Orlando, taking a puff on his cigar. "Because everything I do, I do with my heart." Forty-nine prisoners were freed on his first trip, 300 on the second, 3,600 in all.
Over breakfast one morning—an open box of Serie 1926 No. 6 Maduros sits on the counter at all times, and a cigar is never far away—father and son talk about the odd weather affecting Jalapa, the northern Nicaraguan area prized for its wrappers. Padrón Cigars Inc. gets much of its wrapper crop from Jalapa. Persistent, nagging rain has ruined some of the leaf.
"Fortunately, we have enough tobacco," says Jorge, 39. Later he'll walk a visitor past pile after pile—pilón after pilón—of fermenting tobacco leaves, enough to make five years' or so worth of Padrón cigars. Every few steps he and his father stop to dig a leaf out from the pilón, tear it in half and wrap it around their burning cigars for a test smoke. This is quality control, Padrón-style.
The work has resulted in unparalleled accolades for the family's cigars: Padróns have never rated lower than third on Cigar Aficionado's annual Top 25 list, and the Padrón Serie 1926 40th Anniversary was named Cigar of the Year in February 2005.
José Orlando Padrón seems in a reflective mood on this trip, enjoying his surroundings. He appears to be scowling, but he's deep in thought, deeply sniffing the white gardenia he has picked from the courtyard of his house, which abuts the cigar factory. "This flower is very significant," he says, a smile making its way to his face. "I used to play under a gardenia plant when I was a child." He holds the bloom in his right hand, his ever-present cigar in his left.
Padrón turned 80 in 2006, and to commemorate the occasion the family settled on creating the company's first perfecto shape, the Padrón 80th Anniversary cigar. A prototype was first smoked at Cigar Aficionado's Las Vegas Big Smoke in November 2006, and the final product is expected on the market sometime this year.
|Alejandro Martinez Cuenca|
Martinez Cuenca's factory in Estelí, Tabacos Puros de Nicaragua S.A., is busier than in past years. "Right now business is very good. The word to sum it up is stability: we are a modest factory, but we have been doing well in the last five years," says Mario Perez, marketing manager for the company. The company has 70 rollers, making some 2 million cigars a year, most of them Joya de Nicaragua. "The northern part of the country is the poorest, the area most bitten by the war," says Perez. "Estelí maybe was the most bitten city. More than 50 percent of the city was destroyed. Tobacco has given this area stability."
The Joya de Nicaragua Antaño, which took two years to create, was the company's attempt to recapture the flavor of the Nicaraguan cigars of the glory days of the early 1970s. The bold and rich cigars have found an eager audience in the United States. Perez credits Antaño with making the factory busy again.
New cigarmakers have set up shop here recently. One of the more interesting additions is Tabacalera Cubana, the Estelí outpost of Pepin Garcia's El Rey de Los Habanos, the tiny Miami factory that is making outstanding cigars such as Tatuaje.
Tabacalera Cubana, which is co-owned by Garcia and Eduardo Fernandez, has been open since mid-2006. It has 36 pairs of rollers, a few making short-fill cigars, most making long-filler smokes. The filler tobacco is all local Nicaraguan leaf, with wrappers from around the world.
To help bring the new factory up to speed, Pepin's son, Jaime, now spends much of his time there: one month in Nicaragua, followed by a few weeks in Miami, then back to Nicaragua. His father does a similar rotation to ensure that one of them is at the Estelí factory on most days.
"Cuban tobacco is the best in the world, when worked properly," says Jaime Garcia, 35, sitting in front of a modest table on the second floor of his Nicaraguan cigar factory. "For me, Nicaragua resembles the closest to Cuban tobacco."
The younger Garcia has a powerful build, a military-style haircut and sleepy eyes, and the frequent smile of a man who realizes he is hitting his stride and doing things very well. He eagerly hands out cigar after cigar. The tobacco is excellent, rich Nicaraguan leaf with lots of character. Some of the smokes are balanced and sublime, others as powerful as an uppercut from one of the Klitschko brothers. All are exquisitely made with the careful construction that has become a Garcia hallmark. Was it difficult to teach the Nicaraguan rollers how to do a three-seam cap, in the Cuban style? "It's not their tradition, so it's difficult," Garcia admits. "We said, 'You need to work more.'"
Garcia's father was a top roller in Cuba, making such cigars as the Montecristo "A." (Back in the late 1950s, Jaime says, the family had a factory in Cuba.) Pepin Garcia left Cuba for Nicaragua, worked with Fernandez in the Jalapa region, then opened El Rey de Los Habanos in 2003. High ratings in Cigar Aficionado soon followed. But the Garcias could only do so much in Miami, where they had all of a dozen rollers. For expansion, they looked to Nicaragua, the source of most of their tobacco.
There are differences. In Miami, the cigars are made by one person, who bunches and wraps. In Nicaragua, the bunching is done by one worker, the rolling by another.
With a nod to Cuban style, the cigars in Nicaragua are rolled with two binder leaves, rather than one large one. "The binders are important in the blend," Jaime Garcia insists. There are also no Temsco bunching machines here, not even for the Cuban-sandwich-style cigars made with a hefty dose of short-filler tobacco.
The factory does quite a bit of business under contract, making cigars for other companies. In addition to Tatuaje owner Pete Johnson and Padilla Cigars, there are Holt's, Cigars International and others. Total production at the factory will be about 3 million cigars.
When asked if they worry that quality will slip with this great expansion of cigar production, the younger Garcia says, "We think we can improve the quality." The high ratings have followed: the Tatuaje Havana VI Angeles, which is made in Estelí, recently scored 93 points.
Garcia is not concerned about Ortega. "Everyone is working in tobacco here. Where are they going to work if everything changes?" he says, reflecting on the importance of the tobacco industry to the Nicaraguan economy.
Toraño Cigars, one of the established Nicaraguan cigarmakers, has reaffirmed its commitment to making cigars in this country by recently acquiring a mountain overlooking the city of Estelí, where it will build a new factory for its cigar production in Nicaragua. The company envisions as many as 400 rollers and 400 bunchers eventually working there. Carlos Toraño Noventa and Toraño 1916 Cameroon will be rolled there, as well as C.A.O. International Inc.'s Nicaraguan cigars. The company also makes the Dunhill Signed Range cigar brand for British giant BAT.
|Jose Oliva puts flame to one of his family's cigars.|
Over the past 12 years the Olivas have grown their business, surviving the tough days that followed the cigar boom and now prospering thanks to the succulent blends they make using well-aged tobacco, much of it grown on their own farms. Jose and his older brother, Gilberto Jr., show off several warehouses.
"We ferment at a very slow pace," says Gilberto Jr., a heavyset man who looks younger than his 46 years and wears an easy smile. "We don't like to bring the temperatures too high."
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