Manny's Steakhouse, Minneapolis
From the Print Edition:
Wayne Gretzky, Mar/Apr 97
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A sirloin-cut veal chop, blushing a milky pink, bears a slender ribbon of fat beneath its crusty surface to moisten the tender meat. Three double-cut lamb chops (which buys you the whole rack) boast a sweet and slightly gamy flavor livened with a shake of salt.
Salads and side dishes are bountiful enough to share, as the waiters are quick to advise. Asparagus, stacked like Lincoln logs, arrived ideally al dente, its satiny Hollandaise more buttery than bright with lemon. Creamed garlic spinach proved as pungent as it was addictive.
Desserts, all classic steakhouse fare, are made for marathon eaters, too. We ordered a brownie sundae, and lived to tell about it. It's not a single brownie at all, but the whole six-inch pan--cakey rather than chewy, buried in an avalanche of premium ice cream, caramel sauce and pouring cream, gently whipped, with a shower of toasted macadamia nuts. To top this, our waiter did a two-handed pour of hot butterscotch and chocolate sauces. Then he stabbed a steak knife in the middle. Fitting.
Manny's is open for dinner only. "We're on the phone all day and on the floor all night," says Stanley.
Carla Waldemar is senior editor at Cuisine and writes on food for several other publications.
Hyatt Regency Hotel
1300 Nicollet Mall
Phone: (612) 339-9900
Dinner: About $50 per person, without wine
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