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London: Restaurants
London's Restaurants Have Caught Up With The World's Best Dining Destinations
James Suckling
From the Print Edition:
Jeff Bridges, Sep/Oct 01
(continued from page 8)
E-mail: tamarind.restaurant@virgin.net
Web: www.tamarindrestaurant.com
Lunch, Sunday to Friday; dinner, nightly
You don't have to visit India to eat spectacular Indian food. London has some of the best Indian restaurants in the world and Tamarind remains the finest. It even has one star from the Michelin Guide. The refined, relaxing decor of this basement restaurant in Mayfair is the first indication that this is no simple curry house. Diners can watch the chefs cook various meats, fish, poultry and vegetables in the beehive shaped clay ovens through a window at one end of the dining room. The food is vibrant and sophisticated, redefining what most people think of Indian cuisine.
Nearly all the courses are spicy and refreshing, emphasizing the wholesomeness of the kitchen's ingredients. All the spices are shipped directly from India and the three chefs come from the Dehli region in India.
Some of the most interesting dishes are fish. A saffron-and-yogurt-marinated tandoori monkfish is soft, tender and succulent, with light pungent flavors. Pan-fried salmon with green spices and crispy spinach is equally tender yet is tangy and intensely flavored with cumin. Service is quick and friendly, and the staff is always willing to offer suggestions. The big drawback here is the wine list: it's short and expensive. I was still able to find a good bottle of Australian Riesling, although an Indian lager beer might have been a better choice.
The Square
6-10 Bruton Street, Mayfair, W1J 6PU
Tel.: 44/207-495-7100
Fax: 44/207-495-7150
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