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The Mysteries of Burgundy

From Chablis to the Côte d'Or to Beaujolais, Finding the Best Wines of this Fabled Region is Always a Challenge
Matt Kramer
From the Print Edition:
Ron Perelman, Spring 95

(continued from page 2)

Domaine de la Pousse d'Or
(Volnay, Santenay; refined, very pure, detailed, expensive)

Domaine Michel Prunier
(Auxey-Duresses, Volnay; concentrated, intense, great buy)

Domaine Daniel Rion
(Nuits-St.-Georges, Vosne-Romanée; concentrated, mouth-filling, expensive)

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
(Vosne-Romanée; Burgundy's most famous and most expensive red wines; memorably great)

Domaine Joseph Roty
(Gevrey-Chambertin; very fine, expensive, hard to locate)

Domaine Georges Roumier
(Chambolle-Musigny; superb, silky, defined, concentrated, very great)

Domaine Armand Rousseau
(Gevrey-Chambertin; an old standard-bearer returned to top form, expensive)

Domaine Tollot-Beaut & Fils
(Corton, Beaune; lovely, oaky wines, concentrated)

Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé
(Musigny, Bonnes Mares; big owner, wines on the comeback; expensive)


Domaine Amiot-Bonfils
(Chassagne-Montrachet; beautiful definition and concentration, good buys)

Domaine Robert Ampeau
(Meursault; unusually rich, intense, long-lived)

Domaine Bonneau du Martray
(Corton-Charlemagne; famous vineyard, rich, long-lived, great)

Domaine J.-F. Coche-Dury
(Meursault; concentrated, austere, very expensive and hard to locate)

Domaine Michel Colin-Deleger
(Chassagne-Montrachet; detailed, austere style, long-lived)

Domaine Albert Grivault
(Meursault; famous for Clos des Perrierès vineyard)

Domaine Patrick Javillier
(Meursault; a young, rising star)

Domaine François Jobard
(Meursault; among the greatest,unusually long-lived)

Domaine des Comtes Lafon
(Meursault; intense, rich, oaky, very expensive and hard to secure)

Domaine Leflaive
(Puligny-Montrachet; expensive, very fine and highly polished)

Domaine Leroy
(Corton-Charlemagne, Puligny-Montrachet, Auxey-Duresses; among the greatest, expensive)

Domaine du Duc de Magenta
(Chassagne-Montrachet, Auxey-Duresses; long-term contract with Louis Jadot, great quality)

Domaine Pierre Matrot/Joseph Matrot
(Meursault; austere, no apparent oak, very fine, good buy)

Domaine Michel Niellon
(Chassagne-Montrachet; one of the greatest, hard to find)

Domaine Paul Pernot
(Puligny-Montrachet; rich, intense, newly arrived in the United States)

Domaine Ramonet
(Chassagne-Montrachet; famous, very great, expensive and rare)

Domaine Guy Roulot
(Meursault; many vineyards, fine quality)

Domaine Étienne Sauzet
(Puligny-Montrachet; superb, austere, expensive, rare)


The Côte Chalonnaise is without question the most unappreciated, unexplored source of good red (Pinot Noir) and white (Chardonnay) Burgundies. For everyday drinking--or even better--look for wines from Bouzeron, Rully, Mercurey, Givry and Montagny.

Château de Chamirey
(Mercurey; intense, concentrated red Mercurey, also impressive white, distributed by Antonin Rodet)

(Mercurey; Côte d'Or shipper specializes in superb, concentrated red Mercurey)

Domaine Michel Goubard
(Bouzeron; lovely, delicate Pinot Noir sold as Bourgogne)

Domaine Joblot
(Givry; concen-trated, very oaky but good red Givry)

Domaine Michel Juillot
(Mercurey; rich, oaky red Mercurey, very fine)

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