Tailors in the Office
How to Buy a Wardrobe without Leaving the Workplace
G. Bruce Boyer
From the Print Edition:
Tom Selleck, Winter 95/96
(continued from page 3)
Dormeuil Personal Tailor Service
40 Central Park South, Suite 2
New York, New York 10019
This service combines the sybaritic fabrics of Dormeuil (European cloth merchants since 1842) with the tailoring firm of Nancy Hilton. The team has garnered a reputation for uncompromising concern and peerless craftsmanship. It has an elite establishment clientele, most of whom prefer a basically traditional look, eschewing the trendy in favor of the timeless, such as jackets with subtle cashmere blazers at $1,800; other sport coats from $800.
Bo Hussung Clothier
913 Battery Lane
Nashville, Tennessee 37220
Bo Hussung's clientele is mainly of the professional ilk--brokers, attorneys, that sort of thing. This being Nashville, though, Hussung has more than his share of men in the music business, "mostly on the management side," he says. Which makes sense, since the preferred house style is updated classic, with perhaps just a slightly extended, but soft, shoulder line, and just a tad lower button stance for a more sophisticated line. Suits range from $850 to $2,500; sport coats from $650; shirts around $100; and individual trousers from $250.
Martinez Custom Clothier
1669 Lobdell Avenue at Jefferson Highway
Baton Rouge, Louisiana 70806
"I usually spend as much time discussing what the client wants as I do taking the measurements and styling details," says Manuel Martinez. And with good reason, since he is fanatical about getting things right. "We try to minimize the less flattering features and accent the favorable ones," he says. The firm prefers an elegant English silhouette with medium-square shoulders, and either side of ventless back. Double-breasted suits in tropical-weight Super 100s are very dressy, while silk-and-wool, cashmere and linen sport coats offer an elegant alternative. Suits from $900; sport coats in Loro Piana cashmere at $1,950; shirts from $85.
Nathan's Custom Tailors
828 East Main Street
Richmond, Virginia 23219
Barry and Michael Zell are the owners of the custom-tailoring business their father started 60 years ago. Their clientele consists of upper-echelon businessmen--more than 20 are on the Fortune 500 list of CEOs--and not a few Washington politicians. ("When I visit the Senate Office Building to do a fitting, the Senate police always find a good parking space for me," says Barry.) Everything the firm provides is custom-made except for ties and cuff links. The preferred style here is decidedly international. "We like a shouldered coat," says Michael, "because it's more flattering to the line of the body." Close to 500 cloths are always in stock, and thousands more are found in the swatch books. Suits from $895; sport coats from $595; shirts (of which there are over 700 fabrics from which to choose), $75 to $200.
Renzi Custom Gallery
220 Newport Center Drive, Suite 22
Newport Beach, California 92660
"Good clothing is expensive, and men shouldn't settle for a suit they're not totally happy with," says Michael Renzi, the firm's owner. "We give our customers infinitely greater selection than the stores do with their limited inventory. And we don't ask them to interrupt their schedules to shop." The Southern California clientele, which includes entertainment celebrities and high-profile athletes, prefers a more wedge-shaped silhouette, with wide shoulders and trim hip. High twist crepes, serges and failles are the fabrics of choice. Suits from $1,295; sport coats, $995; trousers at $395; shirts, $125.
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