A Slew of Custom Tailoring Choices Adds Up to One Thing: A Suit to Fit Each Individual
G. Bruce Boyer
From the Print Edition:
Orlando Hernandez, Mar/Apr 99
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Harrison James 5 West 54th Street, New York, New York; (212) 541-6870. Harrison James is a two-year-old store for men in Manhattan, with a superb ready-to-wear collection of business and sportswear. But it also has a made-to-measure program of clothes with a distinctly international flair. Jackets sit slightly closer to the body and have high armholes, square shoulders and a bit higher button stance. Luxury fabrics are the rule. Suits from $2,750; jackets from $1,895.
Kiton Custom Shop (at Bergdorf Goodman Men's Store) 745 Fifth Avenue, New York, New York; (212) 339-3324. This is the custom shop for the acclaimed Neopolitan firm that specializes in the soft sartorial approach, more of an Italian interpretation of English styling. Never heavy or stiff, the rule here is shape with a light, easy fit: smaller shoulder, subtle waist and a trim hip. All exclusive fabrics. Suits from $3,700.
Leonard Logsdail 9 East 53rd Street, New York, New York; (212) 752-5030. Logsdail is a Savile Row-trained bench tailor who came to New York in 1991 and set up a bespoke firm. He prefers a mid-Atlantic business look, not as stiff as the English, but with a bit more shape than traditional American. A master tailor adept at everything from Norfolk jackets to tail coats. Full range of the best fabrics. Bench suits from $3,800; jackets from $2,800.
Oxxford Custom (at Bergdorf Goodman Men's Store) 745 Fifth Avenue, New York, New York; (212) 339-3323. Oxxford, generally conceded to be the best-made readywear tailored clothing in the United States, has opened a custom shop in the famed Fifth Avenue store. The preferred model has natural shoulders and subtle body shaping, making for a suit that has both style and comfort. An exclusive range of fabrics, including the Super woolens and the highest quality Doupioni silks. Custom suits from $2,600; jackets from $2,000.
Edgar Pomeroy 2985 Piedmont Road NE, Atlanta, Georgia; (404) 365-0405. Pomeroy started his career by designing custom clothes that had a rather brash, high visibility to them. He's moderated a bit and is now content to deliver mere style and taste. Pin-striped suits with odd vests are his favorite, but doeskin blazers, natty tweeds and linens are right up his street. Custom suits from $1,600; jackets from $1,000.
Vincenzo Sanitate 27 West 55th Street, New York, New York; (212) 755-0937. Sanitate can make the most proper business suit. What he enjoys, though, is super lightweight garments: the smallest of shoulder pads and thinnest of interlinings go into his unconstructed jackets and trousers of featherweight Super woolens, shirt-weight linens, and blended cashmeres. Bench suits from $3,500; jackets from $2,350.
Jack Simpson 200 Central Park South, New York, New York; (212) 581-9003. Simpson (who makes office calls) likes a British silhouette--small but slightly extended shoulder, nipped waist, trim hip, and full-cut and tapered trouser--with a soft feel. He's a great believer in suits with vests, even sports jackets with matching vests. With Simpson continually on the lookout for interesting fabrics, there's always something new here. Custom suits from $1,850; worsted cashmere sports jackets $2,140.
Domenico Spano (at Bergdorf Goodman Men's Store) 745 Fifth Avenue, New York, New York; (212) 339-3350. Mimmo Spano's preferences tend towards the elegance of Hollywood in the 1940s: a masculine silhouette, with a higher but soft shoulder, ample chest and waist shaping. He likes double-breasteds to have straight and clean-cut lapels, and either side or ventless backs. A range of fabrics designed by him and woven by Moxon of Hudderfield. Custom suits from $2,000; jackets from $1,450.
Sulka 430 Park Avenue, New York, New York; (212) 980-5200. For more than a hundred years, Sulka has been a name synonymous with elegance and meticulous craftsmanship. Best known for its luxe haberdashery, it has for some time now had a tailoring department on the premises. The look is cosmopolitan and at home in the world at large. Sulka also does a fine line of made-to-measure clothes, crafted in Italy. A range of exclusive fabrics. Bench suits and jackets from $3,800 and $2,500, respectively; made-to-measure from $2,750 and $2,000.
Giacomo Trabalza 723 North La Cienega Boulevard, Los Angeles, California; (310) 652-6396. A craftsman of the Northern Italian school, Trabalza favors the classic look of Milan circa 1940: a decidedly urbane silhouette with an elongated line, accomplished by a slightly longer jacket, peak lapels with a higher lapel gorge, and a moderately high shoulder. He would prefer to do a long-roll lapel with a one-button closure on a single-breasted jacket, but he does two- and three-button fronts as well. Bench suits from $3,000; jackets from $2,200.
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