A Slew of Custom Tailoring Choices Adds Up to One Thing: A Suit to Fit Each Individual
G. Bruce Boyer
From the Print Edition:
Orlando Hernandez, Mar/Apr 99
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Brioni 610 Fifth Avenue, New York, New York; (212) 956-4155.Brioni prides itself on the classic Roman style--square shoulders and slimming shape with subtle waist suppression. Farbrics are luxurious. Custom suits from $3,000; jackets from $2,100.
Cheo Tailors 30 East 60th Street, New York, New York; (212) 980-9838. Cheo, trained on Savile Row, believes the Row's traditional cutting system is the only way to make a first-class suit. Made entirely by hand with the finest materials, the garments have good shape, but are soft and easy. Bench-made suits from $3,000; jackets from $2,200.
Gian DeCaro Sartoria 2025 First Avenue, Seattle, Washington; (206) 448-2812. DeCaro is of the Anglo-Italian school and prefers a slightly shaped coat and full-cut trousers. He likes to do softly constructed jackets in the newer ultralightweight fabrics such as the Super woolens and luxury cottons. Custom suits from $1,900; jackets from $1,500.
Chris Despos 34 East Oak Street, Chicago, Illinois; (312) 944-8833.Classic elegance is the rule here, and Despos's aim is for propriety of proportions. Updated traditional in its best form, crafted in midweight worsteds that have good drape and hold their shape. Bench-made suits from $3,000; jackets from $2,400.
Dormeuil 21 East 67th Street, New York, New York; (212) 396-4444.The tailoring firm (which makes office calls) does custom and made-to-measure clothes with an Anglo-American air (everything in moderation for the executive wardrobe). Dormeuil is also one of the world's great cloth houses and knows as much about fine fabrics as anyone. It's particularly adept at cashmere, silk-and-cashmere blends, worsted cashmere and its exclusive "Pashmina" cloth, considered finer than cashmere. Made-to-measure suits from $1,350; custom from $2,850.
Alfred Dunhill 450 Park Avenue, New York, New York; (212) 735-7543. While Dunhill is an old British firm, it takes an international businessman's approach: not as much shoulder or as high an armhole as the more fashionable looks, but with some suppression at the waist. Its goal is moderation in silhouette and detail. Bench and custom suits from $2,650 and $1,950, jackets starting at $2,100 and $1,435.
William Fioravanti 45 West 57th Street, New York, New York; (212) 355-1540. Fioravanti is the original architect and most respected advocate of the Power Look, an approach for CEOs and other men at the top: square, straight shoulders, and a trim, pristine silhouette for a dynamic appearance. This is real boardroom stuff. Exclusive fabrics. Bench-made suits from $4,250; jackets from $3,700.
The Alan Flusser Custom Shop (at Saks Fifth Avenue) 611 Fifth Avenue, New York, New York; (212) 888-7100. Flusser's house style has a soft, sophisticated silhouette highly thought of by the cognescenti: some body shaping, with a sloped defined shoulder and slim hip; trousers are full-cut and slightly tapered. Reputedly the largest number of exclusive fabrics to be found. Made-to-measure suits and jackets from $1,000 and $800, respectively; custom from $1,895 and $1,295.
Giliberto Designs 142 West 36th Street, New York, New York; (212) 695-4925. Styling here runs to jackets with clearly defined lines and shape. Many customers now choose a three-button (middle button on the natural waist), single-breasted cut, with or without a vest, but the six-button/two-to-button double-breasted is still very much in vogue. Full range of fabrics. Bench suits from $1,800; jackets from $1,200.
Jon Green 903 Madison Avenue, New York, New York; (212) 734-8965. In association with the renowned shirtmaker Alexander Kabbaz, Jon Green prefers the moderate road: subtle shaping, a medium-high shoulder and armhole, a slightly trimmer trouser. Everything is balanced properly, nothing outre. Bench suits from $3,800; jackets from $2,800.
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