A Slew of Custom Tailoring Choices Adds Up to One Thing: A Suit to Fit Each Individual
G. Bruce Boyer
From the Print Edition:
Orlando Hernandez, Mar/Apr 99
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Vincenzo Sanitate 27 West 55th Street, New York, New York; (212) 755-0937. Sanitate can make the most proper business suit. What he enjoys, though, is super lightweight garments: the smallest of shoulder pads and thinnest of interlinings go into his unconstructed jackets and trousers of featherweight Super woolens, shirt-weight linens, and blended cashmeres. Bench suits from $3,500; jackets from $2,350.
Jack Simpson 200 Central Park South, New York, New York; (212) 581-9003. Simpson (who makes office calls) likes a British silhouette--small but slightly extended shoulder, nipped waist, trim hip, and full-cut and tapered trouser--with a soft feel. He's a great believer in suits with vests, even sports jackets with matching vests. With Simpson continually on the lookout for interesting fabrics, there's always something new here. Custom suits from $1,850; worsted cashmere sports jackets $2,140.
Domenico Spano (at Bergdorf Goodman Men's Store) 745 Fifth Avenue, New York, New York; (212) 339-3350. Mimmo Spano's preferences tend towards the elegance of Hollywood in the 1940s: a masculine silhouette, with a higher but soft shoulder, ample chest and waist shaping. He likes double-breasteds to have straight and clean-cut lapels, and either side or ventless backs. A range of fabrics designed by him and woven by Moxon of Hudderfield. Custom suits from $2,000; jackets from $1,450.
Sulka 430 Park Avenue, New York, New York; (212) 980-5200. For more than a hundred years, Sulka has been a name synonymous with elegance and meticulous craftsmanship. Best known for its luxe haberdashery, it has for some time now had a tailoring department on the premises. The look is cosmopolitan and at home in the world at large. Sulka also does a fine line of made-to-measure clothes, crafted in Italy. A range of exclusive fabrics. Bench suits and jackets from $3,800 and $2,500, respectively; made-to-measure from $2,750 and $2,000.
Giacomo Trabalza 723 North La Cienega Boulevard, Los Angeles, California; (310) 652-6396. A craftsman of the Northern Italian school, Trabalza favors the classic look of Milan circa 1940: a decidedly urbane silhouette with an elongated line, accomplished by a slightly longer jacket, peak lapels with a higher lapel gorge, and a moderately high shoulder. He would prefer to do a long-roll lapel with a one-button closure on a single-breasted jacket, but he does two- and three-button fronts as well. Bench suits from $3,000; jackets from $2,200.
Turnbull & Asser 42 East 57th Street, New York, New York; (212) 752-5700. At this U.S. outpost of London's famed Jermyn Street shop, the tailoring is strictly English--garments are made in England and finished here--and traditional: everything in moderation, but with just a hint of flair. A fine selection of wonderful British fabrics, some exclusive. Made-to-measure suits from $1,800; jackets from $1,250.
Ventresca 315 Old York Road, Jenkintown, Pennsylvania; (215) 576-1178. Frank Ventresca is the son of a master tailor (brother Len, also a tailor, has his own shop in nearby Doylestown). He stocks a range of quality and fashionable Italian readywear, but likes a courant international look for his custom business. His customers praise his three-button single-breasted suits with vests, the jackets of which have a moderate shoulder width, square shoulder and some body suppression; the trousers are full-cut. Suits from $1,350; jackets from $1,000.
Ermenegildo Zegna 743 Fifth Ave. New York, New York; (212) 751-3468. Ermenegildo Zegna does two models in made-to-measure: the "Napoli," which is closer to an English silhouette, with a narrower shoulder line; and the "Positano," which has a slightly broader shoulder and fuller body. Suits from $1,600, sports jackets from $1000.
G. Bruce Boyer is the author of Eminently Suitable.
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