Harvey Steiman's Blog Archives
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November 2006
Star Chef to Leave Fifth Floor
Posted: 09:00 AM ET, November 30, 2006
When young chefs have made a splash cooking in someone else's restaurant, having their own place can look so tempting. Especially when friends with money are urging them to take the plunge.
Melissa Perello is not so sure, but she's taking some time off to think it over. Read more
Chefs Feel the Pressure
Posted: 03:32 PM ET, November 29, 2006
Do people expect more from restaurants? Several leading San Francisco chefs said so. They were speaking in a roundtable discussion this week to flog a new Web site featuring their opinions about dining in the Bay area.
"People just aren't as happy with great food and great service as they used to be," said Traci Des Jardins of Jardinière, which hosted the event. Read more
Quince to Upgrade Its Cellar
Posted: 01:01 PM ET, November 28, 2006
What goes with plin? That will be one of Christie Dufault's key assignments now that she has taken the reins as sommelier at Quince.
Plin are tiny ravioli, one of the culinary stars on Piedmont, where they drink Barbera or Dolcetto. Read more
The Thanksgiving Wine Question
Posted: 12:06 PM ET, November 21, 2006
In the run-up to Thanksgiving every year, it seems, every wine pundit weighs in on what to drink with the Thanksgiving dinner. I tend to shrug it off, having offered my viewpoint dozens of times before. But now, with the interaction possible in this blog, I am wondering how those reading this are going to approach the vinous component of Thursday's feast. Read more
A Tart, Puckish History of Modern American Eating
Posted: 02:21 PM ET, November 17, 2006
We take a lot for granted. Grocery stores virtually anywhere in America sell fresh cilantro, heirloom tomatoes, extra-virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Restaurants across the land cook fresh food well and serve an amazing array of vegetables. Sushi is comfort food and salsa, I read the other day, outsells ketchup. Read more
What Am I? A Cork-Taint Magnet?
Posted: 04:54 PM ET, November 14, 2006
When I was on my anti-cork soapbox recently, one reader wrote to ask how it can be that I find cork-tainted wines so often when he seldom does. I thought of that again when I endured yet another frustrating experience over what should have been a nice meal. Read more
Remembering Ed Bradley
Posted: 12:29 PM ET, November 10, 2006
Ed Bradley, who died this week at 65 of leukemia, was best known for his 25 years of sterling journalistic work on television's 60 Minutes. He also had an immense love of fine wine. In a 1994 interview with me, he described how he turned one bedroom in his seven-room New York apartment into a wine cellar. Read more
Behind A to Z's Purchase of Rex Hill
Posted: 12:18 PM ET, November 08, 2006
When Bill Hatcher left his job managing Domaine Drouhin for the Drouhin family of Burgundy in 2000, he didn't know what he was going to do next. He just didn't want to run a big winery any more. Guess what? He just took on the biggest in Oregon.
A to Z Wineworks, the upstart négociant winery that he started with some friends in 2002, just bought Rex Hill, one of Oregon's most venerable wineries. Read more
The Australia Frost: What Does It Mean?
Posted: 01:01 PM ET, November 06, 2006
Devastating spring frosts are expected to reduce Australia's wine production for 2007 by as much as 50 million cases. Given Australia's looming surplus of 100 million cases of wine, that might seem fortuitous. Don't tell the growers who might be wiped out. Read more
The Things You Learn Hanging Out With Chefs
Posted: 05:31 PM ET, November 02, 2006
I spent last weekend in Napa Valley in the company of chefs. Lots of them. I was one of two non-chef judges for the "Almost Famous" chef competition. Sponsored by S. Pellegrino, the mineral water brand, the participants are students at top North American cooking schools. Read more
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