Harvey Steiman's Blog Archives

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March 2008
Chefs Impress at Pebble Beach Inaugural
Posted: 12:59 PM ET, March 31, 2008
One night Charlie Trotter from Chicago, Jean Joho of Everest, Douglas Keane of Cyrus and Michel Richard of Citronelle shared a kitchen to make dinner for 175. The next night, David Kinch of Manresa along with Josiah Citrin of Mélisse, Richard Reddington of Redd and Michael Mina from San Francisco cooked up a few things for 300. Read more
Pebble Beach Tees Up a Starry Food and Wine Event
Posted: 09:34 PM ET, March 28, 2008
It seemed like every longtime attendee of the Masters of Food and Wine was asking each other what they thought on opening night Thursday of the new Pebble Beach Food and Wine event, its successor. The new event is bigger and more sprawling, and there were plenty of hot wineries pouring samples and famous chefs dishing up tasty creations. Read more
Wenatchee? Wow!
Posted: 12:03 PM ET, March 26, 2008
If it were not for the big, wide Columbia River running through eastern Washington, where virtually all of the wine grapes grow, it would be a desert. But the Columbia and its tributaries, mainly the Yakima and Snake rivers, provide enough water for booming agriculture. Read more
On the Pizza Trail: Upholding Tradition
Posted: 11:43 AM ET, March 24, 2008
When Naples-born Peppe Miele read an article that asserted pizza was an American invention, he had to do something. "I knew the history went back thousands of years," he says. "There were pizzerias in Naples that have been there for hundreds of years. Read more
Yakima and DuBrul
Posted: 11:33 AM ET, March 21, 2008
Yakima Valley wine isn't what it used to be, and that's good. In my 30 years of tasting Washington wine, I have often liked the bright fruit character and often zingy acidity Yakima can produce, but there's also a telltale vegetal character that crept into many of its red wines. Read more
On the Pizza Trail: Caioti
Posted: 12:06 PM ET, March 19, 2008
Ed LaDou changed the way we think about pizza. He's best known for inventing California pizza, also known as "designer pizza," which operates under the premise that anything you might put on a plate could go onto a pizza. He was Wolfgang Puck's first pizza chef at Spago when it opened in 1982, and he consulted with California Pizza Kitchen when that chain was getting started in the 1980s. Read more
This and That from Washington State
Posted: 11:17 AM ET, March 14, 2008
Tidbits picked up along the Washington wine trail, where I have logged about 400 miles this week:
Quilceda Creek, once basically a single-wine winery (one of the state's flagship Cabernet Sauvignons), has added another bottling to its portfolio. Read more
Cayuse Takes It a Step Further
Posted: 12:18 PM ET, March 12, 2008
Leave it to maverick Washington state vigneron Christophe Baron of Cayuse to take his biodynamic vineyard beyond most others. He bought a 12-acre piece of flat, rocky land next door to his winery and one of his vineyards in 2006. But he only only planted 2 acres of vines on it, saving some of the cherry and apple trees to feed the pigs, cows and horses he wants to raise there, using the rest for a 5-acre pasture and a 1 1/2-acre compost pile. Read more
Catching Up with Leonetti
Posted: 10:29 AM ET, March 10, 2008
It has been several years since I visited with Gary Figgins and his winemaker son Chris at Leonetti in Walla Walla. I have always liked their wines. They are graceful wines; their rich textures and complex flavors find a balance with sufficient acidity and moderate alcohol levels. Read more
Trying to Recapture the Magic
Posted: 01:49 PM ET, March 07, 2008
The two men who started Rosemount Estate in 1974 are back in business together.
Bob Oatley, now 80 years old, and Chris Hancock, 67, have seen the ups and downs of the wine world, come out of a turbulent phase bloodied but unbowed, and now are betting that America is ready for the bright, juicy wines of Mudgee, where Oatley owns almost 1,200 acres. Read more
Of Monograms and White Hearts: Domaine Serene
Posted: 12:40 PM ET, March 05, 2008
When Domaine Serene came out with a $200 wine called Monogram, I must admit I had my doubts. Not that a Pinot Noir can't be worth that much. Lord knows there are plenty of red Burgundies that go for far more than that, and I understand the argument that if California Cabernets can fetch that much or more, why not a great Pinot? I get it, it makes a statement, but that doesn't mean I'm jumping on the bandwagon. Read more
On the Pizza Trail: New York
Posted: 12:08 PM ET, March 03, 2008
I spent a week visiting pizzerias in New York recently for my upcoming story on pizza in America for Wine Spectator. And no, I am not going to wade into the perennial war over who makes the best pizza in a city renowned for it. Read more
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