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James Laube's Blog Archives

December 2006


Your New Year's Resolutions?

New Year's resolutions are easy to keep if you make them simple and doable.

Years ago, I used to play a game with my mother on New Year's Eve and over the years my resolution—and hers—evolved into this, which I'd like to share. Read more


Why Some Wines Smell Like Bug Spray

I got one of those 9-1-1 wine emergency calls at about 4 p.m. on Christmas day, a few minutes before we started prepping for dinner.

My friend had just opened a bottle of Oregon Pinot Noir that he had purchased on a recent trip to Willamette Valley, and the wine smelled like bug spray. Read more


One-Hit Wine Wonders

Last week I read a story in the New York Times about 1960s rocker Norman Greenbaum.

Some of you will recall he wrote the one-hit wonder, "Spirit In The Sky," in 1969, which by the way was a great vintage for Napa Cabernet and a washout in Bordeaux. Read more


Snappy New Slogan

On Wednesday, I had lunch with St. Supéry CEO Michaela Rodeno and her winemaker, Michael Beaulac.

They poured a couple of new wines, the 2003 Napa Valley Cabernet Franc and the 2003 Rutherford Cabernet, both of which were fruity, supple, balanced and complex. Read more


Do People Still Drink Brandy or Port?

Time was when winter arrived and the temperatures plunged, people pulled out their long underwear and stocking caps along with their brandies and Ports.

The past few nights in Napa Valley have been frosty, icing the birdbaths and forcing the dog and cat to snuggle up tight in the fur-lined bed they share. Read more


Hold the Puns, Pass the Cliches

It sounded romantic the first few times I heard it. Then, as years passed and I got older and knew better, it became a trite cliché.

I'm talking about the expression "My wines are like my children," which is still often uttered by winemakers when asked to pick which of their wines is their favorite. Read more


A Situation Where Everyone Loses

I had dinner with friends the other night at a well-respected restaurant, and the evening ended up being a huge disappointment on several accounts.

I'm not going to name the establishment, nor the wines that were served. I will tell you this: What happened is not a rare, isolated occurrence, and at the end of the evening, everyone ended up losing. Read more


Great Zinfandel From a Special Site

Zinfanatics, and even those who aren't, would do well to try a pair of Zins from Haywood.

The label dropped off the radar of most wine lovers as production decreased due to financial problems, but Haywood's Zinfandels have always been classy, distinctive, balanced and reasonably priced. Read more


A Can't-Miss Winery From Mendocino

Navarro is one of those can't-miss wineries that somehow manages to routinely produce a wide range of elegant, balanced and diverse wines.

It's long been one of my favorites, in part because of its location—western Anderson Valley. Read more


Hanzell Is Back, in a Big Way

I've long been a fan of Hanzell. What's not to like?

This Sonoma Valley winery has a rich history filled with many brilliant wines, thanks in large part to winemaker Bob Sessions, who's now retired.

On several occasions, Sessions and I tasted complete verticals of the winery's Chardonnay and its Pinot Noir, and for the most part, all of the wines dating to the 1960s aged extremely well. Read more


A New Cabernet Gem From Shafer

Fans of Shafer Vineyards Cabernet should be excited about a new wine that takes this venerable winery back to its Cabernet roots.

Early next year, Shafer will release a new Cabernet called One Point Five, which carries the Stags Leap District appellation. Read more


Keen on Grenache

New exciting wines continue to come from Santa Barbara County, and Mikael Sigouin's (pronounced See-gway) new label, Kaena (pronounced Ca-en-ah), is showing off what should be one of California's new wine success stories—Grenache. Read more


A Santa Barbara Winery Calls Foul

He might be a hero to fans of Two-Buck Chuck, but there's a reason Fred Franzia has a bad boy reputation in wine circles—he knows how to stir things up.

For years, Napa Valley vintners battled the feisty owner of Bronco Wine Co. because he used the names Napa Ridge and Rutherford Vintners for wines that didn’t have a drop of Napa juice in them. Read more


A Case of a Super Sample

This week, I've received a couple of e-mails about Wither Hills, a New Zealand winery at the center of a controversy.

Wither Hills was accused of creating a special bottling of its Sauvignon Blanc to enhance its chances in wine competitions. Read more


An Exciting Discovery From Paso Robles

When you can say that a winery makes a lot of great wine at terrific prices, well, that’s a magical thing.

This week I discovered such a winery—Four Vines, founded in 1996. In the words of one of its owners, "This is one of the largest wineries in Paso Robles you’ve never heard of. Read more


Consistency Is Often Underappreciated

Today's conversation is about consistency in style, which is often overlooked or minimized in evaluating wineries and winemakers.

A winery that routinely makes wines that are similar in style and quality can sometimes get lost in the shuffle. Read more


Wine Is Often Full of Surprises

One way for a wine critic to look like an absolute genius is for his barrel reviews to match up perfectly with his scores for the released wines.

Imagine how impressed everyone would be if every wine that scored 95-100 points out of barrel hit the same score range when it was released. Read more


A Pinot Mystery Perhaps Solved

In my Dec. 15 column, I wrote about my experiences with Beaulieu Vineyard's 1946 and 1947 Pinot Noirs. Those incredible wines were an early inspiration to anyone who tasted them, and they were the best vintages ever made by the late André Tchelistcheff (pronounced Chell-a-cheff). Read more



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