Penfolds St. Henri Vertical
Posted: Thursday, September 04, 2008
PENFOLDS Shiraz South Australia St. Henri 2006 Score: 91
Generous and focused, showing a lean feel to the structure, with better acidity and focus to the blueberry and cherry flavors on the finish. Fine tannins.PENFOLDS Shiraz South Australia St. Henri 2005 Score: 90
Firm and focused, with dark berry and floral character on a juicy frame, lingering very well.PENFOLDS Shiraz South Australia St. Henri 2004 Score: 92
Has swarms of tannins, but with a light grip over the pure cherry and boysenberry fruit, persisting nicely into the focused, round finish. Not as lean as some, but expressive right through the finish.1,000 cases imported. PENFOLDS Shiraz South Australia St. Henri 2002 Score: 93
Dense, juicy and powerfully aromatic, with a silky texture to the focused cherry and herb flavors that are long and expressive, melding together beautifully. Needs time to develop extra layers of flavor, which this should do.3,800 cases imported. PENFOLDS Shiraz South Australia St. Henri 1999 Score: 90
Crisp and firm, this has more acidity than 1996 or 1998, but there's excellent length and focus, with a razor-edge balance that lifts the cherry and earth flavors and lets them roll.17,000 cases made. PENFOLDS Shiraz South Australia St. Henri 1998 Score: 92
Firm in texture, with youthful fruit and a slight touch of earth. Focused and elegant. Persists beautifully on the long, elegant finish.20,000 cases made. PENFOLDS Shiraz South Australia St. Henri 1996 Score: 94
Firm, slightly chunky tannins surround a liquid core of blueberry and cherry fruit. This is definitely in the "claret" mold in the way it shows clarity in the flavors without density. The finish has depth and power, but this needs time to soften and gain some flesh.15,784 cases made. PENFOLDS Shiraz South Australia St. Henri 1991 Score: 94
Supple, complete and compelling for the way it slides the cherry and mineral flavors under a polished layer of tannins that blanket the wine through the long, expressive finish.12,400 cases made. PENFOLDS Shiraz South Australia St. Henri 1990 Score: 92
Very firm and focused, with slightly gritty tannins wrapped around a lean, focused core of undifferentiated red fruits and hints of cream and citrus around the edges. Lingers with cherry and cranberry, like the 1986, but not as vivid.8,700 cases made. PENFOLDS Shiraz South Australia St. Henri Claret Special Vintage 1986 Score: 94
Firm and crunchy, with really sweet, fresh cranberry and cherry fruit, finishing with a sweet-tart balance and a finish that lingers on and on. Beautiful stuff, this can go on for another 22 years.20,000 cases made. PENFOLDS Shiraz South Australia St. Henri Claret 1976 Score: 95
Rich and meaty in flavor, with a gamy edge to the dark currant and plum flavors, riding on a supple frame. Has fine tannins, round and generous, with power and elegance. Has hardly developed the old wine character. Almost an underdeveloped wine. Spectacular.2,600 cases made. PENFOLDS Shiraz South Australia St. Henri 1974 Score: 90
This was the worst vintage in SA in 50 years. Maybe not quite as filled-out as some of the others, but it's a complete wine with a sense of freshness and toasty spice notes, showing licorice and dill at the edges and finishing firm and fine.2,400 cases made. PENFOLDS Shiraz South Australia St. Henri 1971 Score: 94
Firm in texture, tart, just short of complete and compelling. Tight and juicy, with plenty of savory notes, adding meaty, bacony touches to the black cherry and dried blueberry flavors at the center. Harmonious, except for the tannins. Though it's had 37 years already, maybe just needs more time.8,500 cases made. PENFOLDS Shiraz South Australia St. Henri 1966 Score: 90
A nice complete wine that still has some grip of tannins, with a leathery note and some cherry and apricot flavors, along with a hint of blueberry on the finish.3,100 cases made. PENFOLDS Shiraz South Australia St. Henri Claret 1963 Score: 81
There's not much nose, showing much on the finish. On the downward slope.1,500 cases made. PENFOLDS Shiraz South Australia St. Henri Claret 1962 Score: 97
A half-bottle was better than a full-size bottle, fresher and more complete. Fills the mouth with cherry and hints of earth and roasted meat. Great balance and intensity.1,500 cases made. PENFOLDS Shiraz South Australia St. Henri Claret 1959 Score: 93
A great nose, complete, with layers of fruit and earthy aged wine overtones here and in the mouth. Harmonious, nearly seamless. A meaty note comes in on the finish, but it's not the central point, which is the open, velvety texture and clarity of flavors. If you handed this glass to someone and asked the vintage, you would get guesses in the 1980s.200 cases made. PENFOLDS Shiraz South Australia St. Henri Claret 1958 Score: 85
This has a smoky, toasty, old wine nose. The acidity sticks out, but there's still fruit underneath, with fresh currant and weird berries, lingering well. Fine, except for the tilt toward acidity.100 cases made. PENFOLDS Shiraz South Australia St. Henri 1956 Score: 93
A phenomenal nose, with dried cherry, caramel and touches of sweet earthiness. Very silky in texture, this is just delicious, with layers of flavor and still a sense of freshness. It's an old wine, but remains very much alive. This vintage was never released commercially.111 cases made. This article appeared in the Oct. 15, 2008, issue of Wine Spectator magazine. (Subscribe today.
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