Frontera Grill/Topolobampo
Chicago
If you're like most Americans, Mexican food conjures up images
of fajitas, piles of refried beans slathered with cheese, nachos, corn
chips and crispy tacos filled with chopped beef and lettuce. In
reality, that food should only be called what it really is:
Tex-Mex. If you're in Chicago, you should discard any preconceptions
about Mexican food and rush to the Frontera Grill and Topolobampo
restaurants run by Rick and Deann Bayless. Frontera Grill and
Topolobampo are adjacent to each other and share the same bar
area. Topolobampo is a white-tablecloth restaurant, while the grill is
more casual, with tile floors and banquettes.
The Baylesses have explored the Mexican countryside, searching out the
most authentic regional dishes. Their dedication extends to such a
degree that each year they close the restaurant and take the staff to
Mexico to eat and discover new dishes. In a recent article, Rick
Bayless wrote, "Contrary to most American expectations, well-made
Mexican regional cooking does not (with a few exceptions) burn with
capsicum [hot peppers]. Rather, it's notably full flavored and richly
complex and, in more cases than not, offers deep-rooted, long-simmered
satisfaction."
A recent meal amply supported Bayless's assertions. It started with a
round of tamales oaxaqueños, a cornmeal cake studded
with chicken in a red mole sauce--the earthiness of the
cornmeal blended perfectly with the red, spicy sauce. A shrimp
cocktail followed. This was really a raw seafood appetizer made snappy
by spices and lemon; it sounded the only false note of the evening
because the whole shrimp didn't quite marry with the dish. Beware of
the tortilla chips here; they are addicting and, combined with the
wonderfully spicy salsas, can make a meal in themselves. On top of
that, the tortillas are freshly made by hand and keep coming steaming
hot to the table throughout the meal.
The main courses included a puerco in pipian rojo, a
wood-grilled pork tenderloin served in a classic sauce of two kinds of
chile and pumpkin seeds. The meat was fork tender, and the rich, sweet
spices produced a smooth combination. You can also order codornices
en petalos de rosas (quail in rose petals), which was made
famous in the novel by Laura Esquivel and movie by the same name,
Like Water for Chocolate. And there is birria de
cabrito, a chile-marinated goat dish that is roasted in banana
leaves and provides a deep, complex set of aromatic flavors filled
with spice.
There are no wrong turns on this menu. Bayless always finds just the
right blend of spices to go with his ingredients, and you very rarely
end up reaching for the water glass to quench some outrageously hot
spice flavor. His menu changes not just seasonally, but weekly as
well. But at any given moment, you will encounter absolutely authentic
Mexican dishes, probably prepared far better here than any you could
have in Mexico.
The wine list has about 100 selections, and Bayless works hard to find
wines that are compatible with his full-flavored cuisine. There is a
good selection of Zinfandels, including those of the highly regarded
Nalle Vineyards. And he provides wines based on the Syrah, Petite
Sirah and Mourvèdre grapes and, perhaps predictably, on the
Tempranillo, which is the basis for many Spanish red wines. Bayless
himself often suggests young, fruity Pinot Noirs to go with the meal.
The one catch here is that cigar smoking is not permitted at your
table. But there are small tables and counters in the bar area where
smoking is allowed. During the summer there is also a section of
tables on the sidewalk where it's easy to have a smoke. Despite the
restrictions, this is a place cigar aficionados should not miss. You
get one of the world's great cuisines prepared to its highest level of
sophistication. And somehow, the linkage to Mexico demands a fine
hand-rolled cigar to finish off the meal.
--Gordon Mott
Frontera Grill/Topolobampo
445 N. Clark Street
(312)
661-1434
Dinner: $75 for two, without wine, at Topolobampo; $40
for two, without wine, at Frontera Grill
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