Published November/December 1997
City Wine & Cigar Co.
New York City
Down a seemingly deserted street in Tribeca, a block
from the Holland Tunnel, lies an oasis. The lower Manhattan building
is large but inconspicuous. At first, you think someone gave you bad
directions. But once you get your bearings and walk through a side
entrance and are greeted by the friendly maître d', you know
that you have come to the right place.
Opened in late 1996 by Drew Nieporent's Myriad Restaurant Group, City
Wine & Cigar Co. has fast become a popular dining and watering
hole for cigar smokers. On any given night, one can see stockbrokers
puffing elbow to elbow with celebrities. In April, Consolidated Cigar
Corp. launched the exclusive LeRoy Neiman Selection, one of the sizes
that make up the Playboy by Don Diego line, at City Wine &
Cigar. And this summer, fashion designer Donna Karan celebrated her
birthday here.
For those seeking a soothing smoke or cocktail before dinner, you can
choose the large, stylish bar in front, where comfortable silver
banquettes await. The liquor and beer selections are extensive and
fairly priced. A cozier alternative is the main cigar bar, where cigar
smoking paraphernalia is on display and a large walk-in humidor
beckons. Brands such as León Jimenes, Partagas and Macanudo are
available at competitive cigar bar prices. The staff is knowledgeable
on proper cigar etiquette and are more than willing to provide
detailed information about particular smokes. In addition, the
restaurant leases private wine and cigar lockers.
The main dining room, situated to the left of the cigar bar, is where
the real action takes place. The interior is modern; its copper
tabletops radiate a warmth and golden ambience that is much in keeping
with the swanky cigar bar theme, without resorting to traditional
leather and wood.
Once you are seated at one of the comfortable, curved velvet
banquettes, the staff's attention is focused on you, while your
attention is on the meal ahead. Chef Patricia Williams has created an
eclectic mix of south-of-the-border-inspired cuisine that is sure to
earn her many fans. With an ever-changing menu, it is difficult to
pinpoint what to choose, since some selections won't be available the
following week. However, the orange and jicama salad with arugula is a
fixture. It combined quite a few flavors and textures without being
dense. The jicama was crisp and fresh and was balanced by the
bitterness of the arugula, the spiciness of the curry dressing and the
pure summer sweetness of the orange slices.
City Wine & Cigar offers entrées ranging from fish to
poultry to red meat. A recent menu featured red snapper with salsa on
a bed of red rice. The fish was succulent and seasoned to
perfection. The bell pepper salsa and Mexican rice added spice and a
touch of pizazz. Another featured dish was a guava-glazed tuna with
cucumber salad and pumpkin seed vinaigrette. The tuna lacked strong
flavors and the guava was hard to detect. The cucumbers were julienned
so thinly that they became rather limp. However, the pumpkin seed
vinaigrette was mouthwatering.
Dessert was the highlight. We chose the Valrhona chocolate pudding
cake with raspberries that's constructed like a mini volcano. Piercing
the cake with a fork creates chocolate lava rivulets erupting over the
crest. It will satisfy even the most diehard chocoholic.
Based on the restaurant's name, one would expect the wine list not to
disappoint, and it doesn't. Sommelier Derek Bromley has obviously gone
to great lengths to attain a wide-ranging selection, emphasizing wines
from France, California and Italy. He even pairs particular sizes of
cigars with particular types of wines. For example, we chose a
medium-bodied Italian red, a 1994 Clerico Barbera. It was the perfect
summer wine: fruity, with hints of sweet berries, yet rich and
smooth. The selection was paired with lonsdales.
A block away from the Holland Tunnel may not seem the ideal location
to enjoy a comfortable and stylish dining and smoking experience, but
those who make the trip won't be disapppointed. --Shandana Durrani
CITY WINE & CIGAR CO.
62 Laight Street
Phone
(212)334-2274
Dinner About $50 per person, without
wine
Cigar Aficionado RSS Feed