Grand Bay Hotel
Miami
The valet runs toward the car. The bell captain in a
white uniform emerges from his kiosk and heads toward the car,
too. Within seconds of stopping, the car door is pulled open gently,
and a hearty "Welcome to the Grand Bay" greets the visitor as he steps
out. "Are you checking in?" the bell captain asks. "Let me get your
bags, and welcome to the Grand Bay." The bell captain escorts the
guest into the lobby, seats him at a reception desk and says, "someone
will be with you shortly." Within a heartbeat or two, a lovely
receptionist approaches the desk and says, "welcome to the Grand Bay."
If at that point you haven't figured it out, check
again: this hotel is genuinely glad that you're staying for the
night. Part of the worldwide Ciga Hotel chain, the Grand Bay is simply
the best hotel in Miami. Somehow its 180 rooms create a small,
European feel...that's by design. Moreover, the Coconut Grove location
is far from the frenetic pace of Miami's hot, new South Beach area,
the aging elegance of the beach's gold coast area and remote in every
sense from the bayside hotels in downtown Miami, which cater to the
cruise-ship crowds. Within walking distance, the Grove's quaint,
narrow streets beckon visitors with cafes and boutiques.
Currently undergoing a discreet, room-by-room
redecoration, the Grand Bay is shedding some of its old-world look for
a more updated, sophisticated tropical appearance. In a large bay
suite--living room with wet bar, separate bedroom and two bathrooms--a
light pine-green-and-tan motif gives a soft, relaxing mood. A basket
of fresh fruit and chilled Perrier Jouet Champagne await guests in
their rooms. There is a fax machine in every room, televisions at
every turn--in the suite, there are phones and televisions in both
bathrooms and both rooms. And each room sports a balcony overlooking
the palms and low trees evident all along Florida's coast. As
advertised, the hotel will deliver room service all day and night and
respond to just about every request; in one brochure, a story is told
about a guest who admired a waiter's jacket. The waiter said, "here,
take it."
The hotel's main restaurant, the Grand Cafe, has
always been considered among Miami's finest. However, in the past two
years, it has suffered the defection of one chef and the presence of
an uninspired replacement. That's all changed. Pascal Oudin, a
Frenchman who is a veteran of the Miami scene, moved into the kitchens
in January and quickly restored the food to its former glory.
Although limited to a few items on a daily-specials
menu, during a recent visit, Oudin's offerings included crabcakes made
with fresh blue and stone crabs; it was a succulent, extremely
flavorful rendering of this dish. Lobster tails with porcinis in a
wild-mushroom reduction was a combination of flavor bursts from the
sea and forest. Main courses of seared tuna and a fresh salmon fillet
were perfectly prepared and showed an inordinate attention to absolute
freshness, a quality that is possible in Miami if you know the right
fishing boat captains.
The wine list is pricey. But it includes some gems, especially given
current vintages that are available in the market. Top white wines
include a 1989 Corton Charlemagne, Bonneau du Martray, $148; a
Puligny-Montrachet, 1990 from Louis Latour, $80 and a 1990 Grgich
Hills Napa Chardonnay, 1990, $67.
Red wine selection is comprehensive, too. California
Cabernets going back to 1974 are listed including Beaulieu Georges de
la Tour, 1974, $275; a Joseph Heitz, Martha's Vineyard, 1979, $175 and
an Inglenook Cask Reserve, 1974, $240. The restaurant also has some
1961 and 1970 first-growth Bordeaux including Château
Lafite-Rothschild, 1961, $895; a Château Latour, 1970, $355; a
Château Mouton-Rothschild, 1961, $895 and a 1970 Château
Margaux, $340.
Of course, this hotel is cigar friendly. Grand Cafe
patrons are asked to smoke their after-dinner cigars in the Ciga bar
area, a rich, wood-paneled room with plush couches and quiet corners,
where smoking them is encouraged. Terry Zarikian, director of product
development, hasn't put in a hotel humidor yet; that's in the works
this year. The impending arrival of a humidor points to one thing: the
hotel's success with a series of cigar dinners, which are limited to
50 people. Tickets are not easy to come by.
In a town where cigar smoke is often in the air, thanks to the city's
strong Cuban community, it's an additional pleasure to find a modern,
luxurious hotel where cigars are also welcome. They are here. Just sit
back in the Ciga bar and check out the welcoming smiles on the staff's
faces, and you'll know that you have a home for a few days or even
just a few hours.
-- Gordon Mott
Grand Bay Hotel
2669 South Bayshore Drive
Phone: (305) 858-9600
Rooms (seasonal rates): $275-$325; Suites: $340-$1,100
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