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Little Havana
Posted: Friday, February 29, 2008
RESTAURANTS & COFFEE SHOPS
La Carreta (Cuban)
3632 SW Eighth St. (between 36th Ave. and 36th Court); 305-444-7501
Behind the statue of a rooster with a cigar clamped in his jaw that stands in front of La Carreta
(Spanish for The Wagon) is a no-nonsense Cuban restaurant that serves food to fill the belly.
Several presses on prominent display through a window open to the kitchen are testament to the
eatery's devotion to the Cuban sandwich, that most marvelous of creations combining sugar-cured
ham, roast pork, Swiss cheese and pickles, heated and pressed on Cuban bread. Don't expect
ambience—just plenty of good food. The churrasco steak is a solid option, and for those who aren't
afraid of a hearty meal, La Carreta serves a delicious lechon asado, or roast pork. Be sure to
order it with black beans and rice, and don't forget the maduros, sweet, ripe plantains fried in
oil until they are caramelized and impossible to resist. The place is open 24 hours.
La Carreta restaurant is known for its signature rooster statue and Cuban cuisine.
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Versailles (Cuban)
3555 SW Eighth St. (between 35th and 36th aves.); 305-444-0240
The
name suggests the French court of Louis XIV, but Versailles is all about eating Cuban food. One
part restaurant, one part meeting place, this is also a fine spot to hear the politics of the day.
(Or the night, as it is open extremely late by Miami standards, closing at 4:30 on Sunday
mornings.) The same family owns La Carreta and this iconic Cuban restaurant. In addition to the
long list of Cuban mainstays such as Moros y Cristianos (Moors and Christians, or black beans and
rice), the Cuban pastries are highly recommended. Perez-Carrillo says the croquetas are the best
examples of these batter-fried, meat-filled treats that he's ever had. A walk-up coffee window
serves Cuban coffee.
El Rey de las Fritas (Cuban fast food)
1821 SW Eighth St. (between 18th and 19th aves.);
305-644-6054
Imagine a hamburger. Now imagine it loaded with spices, moistened with copious
amounts of sauce and topped with a mound of thin and crispy fries. What you would have is a frita,
or a Cuban hamburger, and the best place to eat one is at El Rey de las Fritas. The zippy burgers
pack a spice punch and are quite addictive. The ultra-casual restaurant, like many, also serves a
fine cup of syrupy Cuban coffee, and local cigarmakers swear by the batidos, or milkshakes.
Flamenco dancing at Casa Panza.
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Las Tapas de Rosa (Spanish)
449 SW Eighth St. (between Fourth and Fifth aves.);
305-856-9788
Calle Ocho is more than just Cuban. Elements of the pan-Latin community are also
represented here. The Spanish tradition of serving food in small samples known as tapas is
practiced at this comfortably cozy, clean and brightly lit restaurant. The grilled octopus with
pimentón (smoked paprika) is a great starter, as is the chorizo done in cider. The Serrano ham,
manchego and chorizo sandwich, served on a crusty, flaky roll, prepares the stomach for a long day
of smoking strong cigars.
Casa Panza (Spanish)
1620 SW Eighth St. (near 15th Ave.); 305-643-5343
Live flamenco
dancing comes with the experience at Casa Panza. This vibrant restaurant and nightspot features
Spanish fare such as paella and sangria. According to Janny Garcia of El Rey de los Habanos, the
owner is a lover of the leaf.
El Pub (Cuban)
1548 SW Eighth St. (between 15th and 16th aves.); 305-642-9942
Decorated
with Cuban memorabilia, El Pub specializes in some of the country's favorite dishes such as ropa
vieja, a long-cooked beef dish that tastes far better than its English translation (old rags)
sounds. It also serves Cuban sandwiches and some fans say it has the best café con leche (coffee
with copious amounts of warm milk) in all of Miami. Bargain prices.
Taquerias al Mexico (Mexican)
521 SW Eighth St. (between Fifth and Sixth aves.);
305-858-1160
Another Latin cuisine that is represented on Calle Ocho is Mexican. If your idea
of that country's food is Taco Bell, prepare to be astounded by Taquerias al Mexico. Cigarmaker
Philip Wynne, owner of Felipe Gregorio cigars, calls this little eatery "the best Mexican
restaurant in Miami."
COFFEE COUNTERS
Walk-up counters offer short shots of caffeinated pick-me-ups called café Cubano.
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Forget Starbucks when you are on Calle Ocho. This street, which seems fueled by caffeine, teems
with coffee counters, little restaurant windows that serve bracing shots of Cuban coffee to
customers who needn't bother coming indoors. Ask for a café Cubano, the syrupy espresso-like
concoction that is slurped back in one or two gulps, just the right amount to get you started for
a day of cigar smoking. No need to add sugar: the tiny coffee is loaded with it. You can get one
in just about every restaurant in town and at several counters, including one just across 11th
Avenue from the El Credito Cigars entrance. For some variety, you might try a cortadito, a small
shot of Cuban coffee with a touch of steamed milk, or a café con leche. Expect blank stares if you
order a half caf, skim, venti, doppio...you get the point.
OFF CALLE OCHO, WORTH A DETOUR
Cigar Companies
Although many headquarters of premium cigarmakers are located in or near Miami, only a few are
geared to handle visitors.
Padrón Cigars
1575 SW First St., Miami; 305-643-2117
When Padrón more than quadrupled
its space with its headquarters, the company kept its customers in mind, with a posh cigar lounge
and retail store that stocks all of the company's fine cigars under one roof. Peruse the wall of
photographs spanning the family's more than four decades of making cigars. Family members are
often there—all the more reason for a visit.
The nearby Padrón Cigar headquarters.
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Puros Indios Cigars
114 NW 22nd Ave., Miami; 305-644-1116
This is one part cigar
factory outlet, one part smoking lounge (complete with issues of Cigar Aficionado), located next
door to the sales office and warehouse. The company, now called Reyes Family Cigars, also makes
Cuba Aliados cigars, and president Carlos Diez claims the HQ lounge makes the best Cuban coffee in
Little Havana.
Tabacalera Perdomo Headquarters
5150 NW 167th St., Miami Lakes; 305-627-6700
Grassy and
suburban Miami Lakes is home to Tabacalera Perdomo, where you can sample and buy its
Nicaraguan-made cigars in a cozy smoking room. You may even run into owner Nick Perdomo.
Restaurants
La Camaronera (fish and seafood)
1952 West Flagler St., Miami; 305-642-3322
This
hard-to-find fish restaurant is small but acclaimed. Local papers have ranked it a top fish spot,
and cigarmakers come for the fried fish. A few dollars gets you a simple and memorable lunch: a
fresh piece of fish, breaded and fried on a bun.
La Rosa (Cuban)
4041 NW Seventh St., Miami; 305-541-1715
"It's one of the best Cuban
restaurants," says Jorge Padrón, president of Padrón Cigars. If you're hungry, go for the masitas
de puerco fritas, or fried pork chunks. For something lighter, there's the Cuban staple of
camarones al ajillo, or shrimp in garlic and oil.
Photos by Amy Eckert
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