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Rum Jungle
100 Varieties of Rum & A Lot of Party
Posted: Wednesday, March 23, 2005
By Alejandro Benes
Only recently, but already for too long, the Cuban sandwich has been elevated to a status where delis, diners and upscale restaurants believe some version of it, usually disappointing, must appear on their menus. At least their lunch menus. There is even a "cuebano" sandwich at one of New York City's premier barbecue restaurants. That actually makes a lot more sense than a cubano for $15. For lunch. Remember, we're talking bread, pork, ham, Swiss cheese, pickles and some yellow mustard. The Cuban sandwich widely regarded to be the best in the nation (the United States, not Cuba) goes for about $6 and is found in Miami. The $15 incarnation is available in Las Vegas at Rum Jungle in the Mandalay Bay Hotel. To be fair, the plate comes with an ample serving of plantain chips.
If you think I'm about to tell you not to go to Rum Jungle for the Cuban sandwich, well, yeah. But it's actually a bargain compared to other meals in Vegas in similarly opulent surroundings. And it is quite filling. But there are many other reasons to visit Rum Jungle and most of them, for your humble reporter, have to do with rum.
Rum Jungle, as you might expect, serves numerous brands of rum, more than 100 if you count the different types within each brand, and you should because, like wine or Scotch, there are differences in taste. Sometimes in price as well. The rum list at Rum Jungle categorizes the rums starting with "Aged Rums," then "Dark Rums," "White Rums," "Spiced Rums," "Infused Rums" and "Rum Flights." Let's ignore, for example, the fact that some of the aged rums are also dark. The bartenders will help you with that as well as the "Specialty Drinks" that include rum.
The great advantage of the rum list is that it contains brands that are not easily available everywhere in the United States. Las Vegas, being a place enjoyed hugely by people from everywhere, is truly most valuable to visitors who don't live in big cities. That's why shopping is as big an attraction as gambling in Vegas these days. So if you love rum and haven't been exposed to a lot more than Bacardi -- and, Lord knows, there's not a thing wrong with Bacardi -- Rum Jungle is like hitting the jackpot. Plus, you can have your rum with your cigar!
The rum flights provide a great opportunity to sample the different rums from various producers. With the exception of the "Dark Rum Flight," the samples with each vertical tasting come from the same maker. So you're not getting the chance to compare the same style of rum from different houses. That makes the flights somewhat more useful to a novice looking to find out what kind of rum he really likes. 'Nuf said.
Rum -- especially dark or premium -- is often an afterthought at most bars, so I greatly appreciated that Rum Jungle had some extraordinary premium rums on its list. Start anywhere, but don't fail to try the Zaya 12-year Estate from Guatemala ($12.50). This is rum-imitating-brandy and will please the connoisseur as well as the rookie with its smooth character (Bacardi 8 accomplishes the same at $8.50). Zaya is not, as some dark rums can be, overly sugary and evocative of bubblegum. If you have won big at the tables, have the Pyrat flight. Pyrat is an Anguillan rum owned by Patron Spirits, better known for its Tequila. The Rum Jungle Pyrat flight offers, for $65, tastes of Pyrat Pistol (named for the design on the box it comes in), Pyrat XO Reserve -- Planter's Gold and Pyrat Cask 23. They are all 80-proof and increase in viscosity and complexity in the order listed. If you've been waiting to have a special, particularly strong cigar, skip the flight and spend the $65 on a pour of just the Cask 23.
Pyrat Cask 23 is the opposite of, say, Zaya, or one of my favorites, the quite-dry Bacardi 1873 (not available at Rum Jungle or outside of Puerto Rico, if I remember correctly). Cask 23 is almost more molasses than rum. It is almost the cane juice itself turned caramel color. Don't mix it with anything, especially a cola. And avoid, if you can, pouring it over ice. You'll mask the richness. If you're really unconcerned about price and you like a very sweet drink, rest assured that Cask 23 will please you. If you make an effort to find and buy a bottle, it'll likely run you more than $300. Then make an appointment with your dentist.
In truth, Rum Jungle sells more rum than other watering holes, but not more rum than vodka or the usual orders taken at America's bars. So the rum fits the theme and so does the menu, with very nice small plates and a superb "Rotisserie Pineapple-Rum Teriyaki Chicken" served with sweet-chili sautéed vegetables and coconut-scallion rice. If you're not that hungry, or if you're going to dance after 11 p.m. when Rum Jungle turns into a club, try the fried calamari salad with bananas, chayote, hearts of palm, cashews and an orange-miso vinaigrette (light on the dressing, please). The signature main dish seems to be the "Columbian [sic] Coffee Smoked Baby Back Ribs."
Rum Jungle, ultimately, is schizophrenic. It is, most of all, a three-story bar and late-night club, complete with glass-wall waterfalls, go-go dancers "inside" of chandeliers and a trapeze act you need to see for yourself. The music is thumping. A DJ plays the tunes accompanied by a percussionist. If you're looking for beautiful people, they're here. Rum Jungle also tries, and generally succeeds, to be a unique restaurant in Vegas. Of course, many big cities have lots of nuevo latino joints happening. Save the Cuban sandwich for Miami.
Alejandro Benes was given the nickname "Rummy" prior to its being slapped on the Secretary of Defense.
Rum Jungle
Mandalay Bay Resort and Casino
3950 Las Vegas Blvd. South
Las Vegas, Nevada 89119
Phone: 1 877-632-7800
Go to Cigar Bar Central.
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